Often I'd give it a few revolutions to displace the assembly lube first, I'm kinda generous with the stuff. On this year with the shims without whatever the dealer tool is was the only way that made sense to me.Īlso doing it this way there is no compression so it's very easy to hold the cam sprocket and move it back and forth. First couple sets of heads I checked again for kicks when they were in the car (just threw the valve covers on without gaskets or old gaskets to make sure no damage or dirt on engine install). I seem to do a lot of 97's and this is the method I'd use. Depending on how far the engine is to be (or is) torn down will dictate how I go about doing the valve adjust. NUMBER OF VALVES: 16V ENGINE NUMBER: EJ20 TRANSMISSION TYPE ( MT / AT ) MT adjust the length of the wires Buy direct with global shipping to your door from Osaka, Japan Easy to read, laser etched face features micrometer style markings for precise adjustment (up to 10 degrees in each direction) and quick tunability Hook up vacuum lines The EJ. IMO there's no right or wrong way to do it as long as the adjustment ends up correct. The roller rocker cam follower system that was introduced on the 1.8L Impreza engines. It's much easier to install a cam sprocket and bolt and turn the cam till each cam lobe is relaxed and then check your clearances, etc. SOHC engines now use an adjustment screw to adjust valve clearance. To each their own I guess but that's my habit from doing the bucket/shim heads. Well - I always setup all the valves before I install the heads.
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